Test fitting the truck bed

Today I dropped the bed on the truck to check for clearance with the
tires and suspension. I also checked the clearance for the new gas
tank. Of course one of the bed supports lines up right over the filler
cap. I think I have a plan to fabricate a new support with an opening
for the filler.

To lift the bed I used some 4x4 posts, an engine hoist and a load
leveler.

Finished welding the panhard bar and brackets

This weekend I finished welding the lengthened panhard bar and new
brackets. Tonight I bolted everything together for a final test fit
before paint. Once I get to the shock relocation brackets the rear
suspension should be nearly done.

Making progress on the new panhard bar

I have the new brackets positioned where I want them. The next step is
going to be spot welding everything and check how it works.

Driver's side c-notch is done

Today I cut the driver's side c-notch on my truck. Next I need to take
it all apart and paint everything.

Cut the first c-notch on my truck

Tonight I cut the first c-notch on my truck. This will allow the axle
more travel because it can now go a few inches up into the frame. It
took quite a bit of test fitting and grinding to get it fit without
cutting too much away.

Rear crossmember removed. (finally)

Tonight I was able to remove the last five rivets from the rear cross member. Next I am going to clean up any rust then paint. Once that is done I will bolt the new cross member in place. I am also going to clean up and paint the trailing arms.

Cross member removed	Oh little rivets, how I hate thee. Let me count the ways....

The old and new cross members side by side	Test fitting the new cross member

Starting to remove the rear crossmember

I was about to cut out the c-notches when I realized I should probably bolt in the new cross member first and check where the axle meets the frame. I don't think it will change much from stock but you only get one shot at cutting the frame for the notch.


This is the new crossmember from Classic Performance. It fixes the suspension geometry when you lower the truck 4" or more. The trailing arm mounting points have been moved from the bottom to the top. It also gives more clearance for the drive shaft and exhaust.

I started by removing the four bolts holding the cab to the frame. I placed some wood blocks under the front corners and then I jacked up the back side of the cab.	Once I lifted it with the jack I placed a timber across the frame for the cab to sit on. Hopefully this will give me the clearance I need to remove the rivets on top.

This is the old cross member. There are 10 rivets that need to be removed. Four on top and six on the bottom.	Trailing arms disconnected.

Here I am starting to remove the first three on the passenger side. My method is to grind off the head and then drill out most of the rivet body.

Everything was going fine until a drill bit decided to explode in my face.	Two pieces hit me in the forehead. I'm glad I always wear my safety glasses!