I have the new brackets positioned where I want them. The next step is
going to be spot welding everything and check how it works.
Tuesday, September 15, 2009
Thursday, July 2, 2009
Driver's side c-notch is done
Today I cut the driver's side c-notch on my truck. Next I need to take
it all apart and paint everything.
it all apart and paint everything.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Cut the first c-notch on my truck
Tonight I cut the first c-notch on my truck. This will allow the axle
more travel because it can now go a few inches up into the frame. It
took quite a bit of test fitting and grinding to get it fit without
cutting too much away.
more travel because it can now go a few inches up into the frame. It
took quite a bit of test fitting and grinding to get it fit without
cutting too much away.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Rear crossmember removed. (finally)
Tonight I was able to remove the last five rivets from the rear cross member. Next I am going to clean up any rust then paint. Once that is done I will bolt the new cross member in place. I am also going to clean up and paint the trailing arms.
![]() | ![]() |
| Cross member removed | Oh little rivets, how I hate thee. Let me count the ways.... |
![]() | ![]() |
| The old and new cross members side by side | Test fitting the new cross member |
Saturday, April 18, 2009
Starting to remove the rear crossmember
I was about to cut out the c-notches when I realized I should probably bolt in the new cross member first and check where the axle meets the frame. I don't think it will change much from stock but you only get one shot at cutting the frame for the notch.

This is the new crossmember from Classic Performance. It fixes the suspension geometry when you lower the truck 4" or more. The trailing arm mounting points have been moved from the bottom to the top. It also gives more clearance for the drive shaft and exhaust.

This is the new crossmember from Classic Performance. It fixes the suspension geometry when you lower the truck 4" or more. The trailing arm mounting points have been moved from the bottom to the top. It also gives more clearance for the drive shaft and exhaust.
| This is the old cross member. There are 10 rivets that need to be removed. Four on top and six on the bottom. | Trailing arms disconnected. |
| Here I am starting to remove the first three on the passenger side. My method is to grind off the head and then drill out most of the rivet body. |
| Everything was going fine until a drill bit decided to explode in my face. | Two pieces hit me in the forehead. I'm glad I always wear my safety glasses! |
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
More c-notch prep
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Rear suspension tear down
I started tearing down the rear suspension tonight. I removed the bumper, exhaust, wheels and shocks and one of the springs. I was too tired to break off the last bolt on the other spring. I have a strong suspicion that the rear springs on this truck have never been removed since they were installed at the factory. Every bolt fought me. The cheater bar and sawzall both got a work out.
This picture sums up most of tonight's work.
![]() | ![]() |
This picture sums up most of tonight's work.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)











