Starting to remove the rear crossmember

I was about to cut out the c-notches when I realized I should probably bolt in the new cross member first and check where the axle meets the frame. I don't think it will change much from stock but you only get one shot at cutting the frame for the notch.


This is the new crossmember from Classic Performance. It fixes the suspension geometry when you lower the truck 4" or more. The trailing arm mounting points have been moved from the bottom to the top. It also gives more clearance for the drive shaft and exhaust.

I started by removing the four bolts holding the cab to the frame. I placed some wood blocks under the front corners and then I jacked up the back side of the cab.	Once I lifted it with the jack I placed a timber across the frame for the cab to sit on. Hopefully this will give me the clearance I need to remove the rivets on top.

This is the old cross member. There are 10 rivets that need to be removed. Four on top and six on the bottom.	Trailing arms disconnected.

Here I am starting to remove the first three on the passenger side. My method is to grind off the head and then drill out most of the rivet body.

Everything was going fine until a drill bit decided to explode in my face.	Two pieces hit me in the forehead. I'm glad I always wear my safety glasses!